Fairway

Upper West Side
2127 Broadway
at W. 74th St.

P: 212.595.1888

Harlem
2328 12th Ave.
between W. 132nd/133rd Sts.

P: 212.234.3883

Red Hook
480-500 Van Brunt St.
at Reed St.

P: 718.787.1715

What's great:

The produce selection is huge and incredibly extensive. Here's where you can routinely find 12 kinds of onions, 8 or 10 kinds of mushrooms, celeri root, baby vegetables, a wall of mesclun, and when something rare is in season, like ramps, it will be here. Prices throughout the store are excellent and usually unbeatable. The cheese and deli departments have deep selections and the staff know what they're doing. Competition from Citarella's next door to the Broadway store has probably inspired the fish and meat counters because both are now just as good. The Upper West Side upstairs organic department is huge and somehow just keeps getting bigger, including a section with gluten-free and other allergen-free ingredients. And best of all is the inspiring Steve Jenkins who brings us well-priced yet excellent olive oils, kosher harissa, bins of olives and capers, verjus, salt-packed anchovies, and other foods from around the world. Read his blog on the store's web site for both useful information about what's new in the store, plus some displays of New York humor.

What to avoid:

Going to Fairway's Upper West Side store the day before a major holiday has made me cry. Just don't do it. Throughout the year, holiday or not, always try to shop either mid-week or very early or very late in the day. Otherwise, bring your helmet because you'll need it.

The gorgeous, huge Red Hook store is blissfully civilized during the week but on weekends, be warned that the aisles are packed solid.

What to know:

The staff in every department really know what they're doing so if you need help, ask for it. The meat departments are outstanding and if you're shopping at the Harlem store you'll get to visit the cold room, where the entire meat department is chilled like a huge refrigerator. While they sell meat and poultry pre-cut, they will custom-cut anything you need. They also carry game by D'Artagnan and Murray's chickens (which I personally think are more flavorful than Bell & Evans). The fish monger has a wide selection, sometimes carrying things that Citarella doesn't have, plus Fairway's prices are usually better. Because the store is so busy the inventory is always quickly turning over, resulting in very fresh foods in every department.

The Harlem and Red Hook stores have parking lots. If you don't have a car, all the stores deliver (ask about their delivery territory) or else you can ask the casher if someone can help you out to a taxi. But be nice and tip them.