Zabar's

Upper West Side
2245 Broadway
between W. 80th/81st Sts.

P: 212.787.2000

A New York institution, Zabar's has evolved from being a deli to a full-service market. Its produce section is barely an afterthought, but if you only want to make one stop you can at least buy a tomato. Not a very good one, however. The store is unmatched for its deli and smoked fish, and its cheese, bread and coffee selections are superb. Prices are also very good. Be prepared for crowds at almost any time or any day.

What's great:

Terrific cheese counter (you usually have to take a number but it's worth the wait), and outstanding deli selection, especially for all types of smoked fish. The coffee selection is extensive and exceedingly well-priced (buy more than you need and freeze it). Zabar's is also a place to look for imported ingredients including artisanal pastas like Latini, jams and jellies, olive oil and vinegars, and teas. Their streudel, made in several flavors, is worthy of a grand prize.

What to avoid:

On Sunday mornings it can seem like everyone who lives on the Upper West Side is in the store to buy bagels and lox. During the week, because the store closes so early (at 7:30 p.m. Monday through Friday), it's always crowded after work.

What to know:

Zabar's upstairs cookware store has an excellent selection of appliances, pots and pans (including most major brands), kitchen gadgets, and replacement parts for the stuff you already have, like water filters. Their prices can be so good they won't advertise them but call and ask. It's usually worth the trouble to shop elsewhere but buy here.

Hours of operation are not very friendly. They simply should stay open later.